Beer, banter, barracking: Digby Hildreth discovers that chess can prove to be a fun night out.

Every Tuesday night the Bangalow Hotel rocks to the sound of a bunch of passionate people doing what they love best – playing chess, and watching others play.

Five or six years ago the game broke free of its stereotypes to become one of the world’s most followed spectator activities. The 20 or so regulars at the Bangalow Chess Club are a perfect illustration of this: young, diverse, enthusiastic, and willing to come from afar every week to socialise and compete against each other.

Avalon, currently No. 1 on the leader board, travels from Mullumbimby; and the reputed ‘most improved’ player, Bradley, comes all the way from Nimbin. There’s even an international flavour to the line-up, but 2479 locals also feature among the throng, among them man about town, Lydian Dunbar.

They’re drawn by the chess challenges on offer, but something more as well – an atmosphere of camaraderie and respect. There’s an almost family vibe to the club: indeed, Evan Manttari founded it with his brother Daniel, and former girlfriend Shyla, a bar staffer at the pub. They were looking for something to get them off their screens and out of the house, something which meant the brothers could hang out together regularly. Now Daniel and his girlfriend Teagan – a recent recruit to the game – drive up frequently from their home in Yamba.

Shyla’s mum, Bec, is another who started as a beginner, and says she’s making solid progress. Her main weakness is taking too long to decide on a move, she says, and with each player rationed to 10-minutes for each of the four games played through the night, such hesitancy can mean an automatic loss. The time pressure suits Bec’s other daughter, Amarlie, at 16 the club’s youngest member, who credits her success to a fast, decisive style. It can intimidate opponents, she says, smiling sweetly as she concedes the word ‘aggressive’ might define her style – including in games against her more tentative mum.

But even ruthless Amarlie admits it’s the sense of community that keeps her coming back.

Avalon is one of the more experienced players here: after being taught to play at a young age by his grandfather, he helped set up chess clubs at all the schools he attended while growing up, from Shearwater to Xavier to the Green School. Of the many chess groups and associations he’s been part of, the Bangalow club is the best, he says. The reason? Because the focus is on actual playing. With at least four games guaranteed per player, it’s like a mini tournament. Self-described as “incredibly competitive”, Avalon enjoys the opportunity to play several games, face to face, and with a variety of opponents.

Some of them are, like him, top-notch players and on one rainy Tuesday night in early March, Avalon was slightly startled to find himself suddenly in a trap – the result of a mid-game “fried liver advanced attack variation” – laid, albeit semi-accidentally, by the equally competitive Miela. Checkmate!

At other tables, beginner or intermediate players compete with others at their level – matched appropriately through an algorithm-driven system devised by Evan. While the club offers no formal coaching, there’s plenty of learning ‘on the job’ and during post-game analysis, when the better players offer fruitful feedback.

There are several tiers here; everyone finds their level and they’re all eager to improve. Rob, in his 30s, plays games online. He also follows the games of world No.1, Norwegian grandmaster Magnus Carlsen, on YouTube and is “working on some new openings”.

At 21, rising star Bradley, meanwhile, feels his strength is in his end game. Having come to the club every Tuesday since it began last September, his game has improved 100%, he says.

Towards the end of the four games an air of collective excitement builds at the prospect of a tie-break. At this point, the four 10-minute per person limit shrinks to three-minutes, demanding a heightened degree of concentration and rapid decision-making. The Velvets and Mazzy Star continue supplying the background music, but as the tension rises, even the drinkers and pool players fall silent to watch. The time pressure means mistakes are made: Black’s excessive focus on a potential checkmate in one corner distracts him from the devious White manoeuvre diagonally opposite and whammo! It’s all over.

Evan, meanwhile, has been scampering around in the background, a gleeful master of ceremonies, firing up the AI generated weighted system that records games, matches players and keeps everything moving. The nights represent a magical triad for him: “It’s an ancient game, aided here by modern technology, bringing people together.”

Time to spin the prize-wheel, on which everyone features, with a ‘slice’ allocated for just turning up, and the awarding of the evening’s $20 voucher.

Chess has exploded in the past half dozen years – partly as a result of the massively popular streaming series The Queen’s Gambit, which coincided with COVID lockdowns. Locked-up people found release and stimulation in “meeting” others over the virtual board. Evan says the fulfilment of that personal need is one of the main reasons for the club’s success. Most of the members still play online, but they all state that it’s the face-to-face interaction that brings them out at night.

Bec enjoys it because “there are so many different types of people’” and the atmosphere is friendly and, while competitive, remains respectful, she says.

Chess is an incredibly valuable activity for young people, Avalon says: “It builds a level of resilience, a determination to persevere, to keep your chin up despite losing 100 times. It also develops the capacity for forethought.”

There’s even a moral, or character-building benefit to it: “It teaches humility and it’s a demonstration that our actions have consequences,” he says.

Mainly, however, at this grass-roots level, it’s the “humanness” of it, says Evan, the craic and the connection, both intellectually sophisticated and innocent.

It’s been a revelation for him: “Daniel and I started the club for ourselves, but it’s become something for others. People have made friends here; it costs nothing, but there’s real joy in that room.”

Bangalow Chess meets every Tuesday, 6-9pm at the Bangalow Hotel.

For details email bangalowchess@gmail.com

Photos Yutaro Fukuhara